Oct 1
/
Dr. Daniel Langer
Luxury Unfiltered: Gucci Bets Big on a Second Radical Reset, but Confidence Still Feels Fragile
Milan Fashion Week has long been a stage where fashion reinvents itself, but this season carried an unusual mix of nostalgia and unease. The sudden passing of Giorgio Armani just as the shows began cast a reflective mood across the city, marking the end of a career that defined Italian elegance for half a century.
In striking contrast, Gucci presented a radical new direction under Demna, signaling one of the most high-stakes gambles in recent luxury history. The brand is attempting its second reset in just three years, this time with the pressure not only to entertain but to reverse nearly three years of double-digit sales decline.
In striking contrast, Gucci presented a radical new direction under Demna, signaling one of the most high-stakes gambles in recent luxury history. The brand is attempting its second reset in just three years, this time with the pressure not only to entertain but to reverse nearly three years of double-digit sales decline.

Storytelling Returns, But Confidence Wavers
Demna’s debut avoided the traditional runway. Instead, Gucci premiered The Tiger, a short film directed by Spike Jonze and Halina Reijn, featuring Demi Moore, Elliot Page, and Edward Norton. The choice was deliberate: a signal that storytelling, not just products, would drive the brand’s comeback.
The return to narrative was welcome. After years when Gucci’s voice felt subdued, the film marked a reawakening of creativity. Yet it also felt slightly forced, lacking the effortless swagger that once set Gucci apart. The line between bold experimentation and visible desperation is thin — and Gucci seemed to be treading it.
The collection itself bore Demna’s signature. Iconic house codes like horsebit loafers and monogram tailoring were reinterpreted with irony and deconstruction, while oversized silhouettes and fabric juxtapositions brought his unmistakable edge. It was both homage and critique, dialogue and disruption. But because the previous “clean slate” reset already broke sharply from the brand’s DNA, another rupture risks deepening confusion among clients.
The return to narrative was welcome. After years when Gucci’s voice felt subdued, the film marked a reawakening of creativity. Yet it also felt slightly forced, lacking the effortless swagger that once set Gucci apart. The line between bold experimentation and visible desperation is thin — and Gucci seemed to be treading it.
The collection itself bore Demna’s signature. Iconic house codes like horsebit loafers and monogram tailoring were reinterpreted with irony and deconstruction, while oversized silhouettes and fabric juxtapositions brought his unmistakable edge. It was both homage and critique, dialogue and disruption. But because the previous “clean slate” reset already broke sharply from the brand’s DNA, another rupture risks deepening confusion among clients.
A Market Divided
Investor and industry reactions underscore the fragility of this moment. Kering’s shares fell sharply after Demna’s appointment, reflecting caution rather than enthusiasm. Analysts at Business of Fashion and Vogue Business praised the boldness of the film-led launch but warned that spectacle cannot substitute for commercial traction. The Guardian described the debut as daring but questioned its ability to stop Gucci’s decline without immediate proof of sales momentum.
On social media, reactions have been equally telling. Gucci’s decision to wipe its Instagram account before the debut electrified followers, with archetypes like “La Bomba,” “Bastardo,” and “The Gallerista” sparking immediate cultural conversation. TikTok, however, has been more divided. Some celebrate the drama, while others worry that a second radical reset risks diluting Gucci’s heritage beyond recognition. One widely shared comment captured the tension: “trying to put DNA … not inventing too much.”
The challenge is clear: reinvention must feel like evolution, not disconnection. Clients want to be surprised, but they also want to see a thread that connects them to a brand’s legacy.
On social media, reactions have been equally telling. Gucci’s decision to wipe its Instagram account before the debut electrified followers, with archetypes like “La Bomba,” “Bastardo,” and “The Gallerista” sparking immediate cultural conversation. TikTok, however, has been more divided. Some celebrate the drama, while others worry that a second radical reset risks diluting Gucci’s heritage beyond recognition. One widely shared comment captured the tension: “trying to put DNA … not inventing too much.”
The challenge is clear: reinvention must feel like evolution, not disconnection. Clients want to be surprised, but they also want to see a thread that connects them to a brand’s legacy.
Lessons from Armani, Risks for Gucci
The juxtaposition with Armani’s farewell is instructive. Armani’s career proves that consistency of vision, sustained over decades, can create lasting influence and trust. Gucci, in contrast, has pivoted sharply twice in under five years, creating uncertainty rather than stability.
This is the central risk for Demna’s Gucci. The debut brought conversation, headlines, and a return to storytelling, but the confidence that once made Gucci the industry’s pace-setter is still absent. Spectacle alone will not repair years of alienation. Strategy must now follow with coherent storytelling across every touchpoint from retail to digital to product, paired with exceptional execution.
Luxury today is defined not by short-term buzz but by emotional resonance and cultural relevance built over time. Demna’s Gucci must deliver both, or risk reducing this bold debut to a fascinating moment rather than the start of a sustainable turnaround.
This is the central risk for Demna’s Gucci. The debut brought conversation, headlines, and a return to storytelling, but the confidence that once made Gucci the industry’s pace-setter is still absent. Spectacle alone will not repair years of alienation. Strategy must now follow with coherent storytelling across every touchpoint from retail to digital to product, paired with exceptional execution.
Luxury today is defined not by short-term buzz but by emotional resonance and cultural relevance built over time. Demna’s Gucci must deliver both, or risk reducing this bold debut to a fascinating moment rather than the start of a sustainable turnaround.
Conclusion
Gucci’s second reset in just three years reveals both the urgency of its situation and the fragility of its client relationships. Demna has reintroduced storytelling to the brand, and the film debut created intrigue, but confidence remains fragile. The path forward requires more than provocation; it demands a clear vision anchored in Gucci’s DNA and translated into consistent, extraordinary experiences.
The stakes could not be higher. If successful, this chapter could mark the rebirth of an icon. If not, Gucci risks becoming a cautionary tale in an industry where loyalty can evaporate in an instant.
The stakes could not be higher. If successful, this chapter could mark the rebirth of an icon. If not, Gucci risks becoming a cautionary tale in an industry where loyalty can evaporate in an instant.
https://www.equiteintelligence.com
Luxury Unfiltered is a weekly column by Daniel Langer. He is the CEO of Équité, a global luxury strategy and creative brand activation firm, where he is the advisor to some of the most iconic luxury brands. He is recognized as a global top-five luxury key opinion leader. He serves as the executive professor of luxury strategy and pricing at Pepperdine University in Malibu and as a professor of luxury at New York University, New York. Dr. Langer has authored best-selling books on luxury management in English and Chinese and is a respected global keynote speaker.
Dr. Langer conducts masterclass management training on various luxury topics around the world. As a luxury expert featured on Bloomberg TV, Financial Times, The New York Times, Forbes, The Economist and others, Mr. Langer holds an MBA and a Ph.D. in luxury management and has received education from Harvard Business School. Follow him on LinkedIn and Instagram, and listen to his Future of Luxury Podcast.
Thank you!
Copyright © 2025 Équité X Agency, LLC All rights reserved
Subscribe now
Gain industry news and perspective with our Équité Intelligence
Luxury Business Newsletter
Thank you!
